First off, I wanted to say "Congrats on taking the leap to bad assify your rig!". This is a really cool addition to put on your Promaster not only because it is aesthetically sick as $%@&, but, it also provides a certain amount of protection to your vehicle. How much? I'm not exactly sure. I've done research and found mixed reviews equally on both sides of the spectrum on how much protection these actually provide. Don't let that deter you though. In my opinion (and you can take this with a grain of salt) I feel that something up front is better than nothing at all. We try not to drive at night, but, sometimes we have to and this gives us an added amount of peace of mind. Plus, I can't say this enough, it looks awesome!
So let me share the Pro's and Con's that I've run into after having it installed on our van for the last five months:
PRO'S:
It looks awesome!
Provides peace of mind with vehicle protection
Super easy to install
You can mount lights on it for better vision at night
You can wash your windows way easier by standing on it
You can sit on it and hang out
It looks AWESOME!
CON'S:
It's a bit pricey
You have to get used to the extra few inches on the front end
In all honesty if you're thinking about pulling the trigger on it, I see no reason not to.
So, let's get to it! First thing you are going to need is the right grill guard to fit your Promaster. The kind you are looking for is a Steelcraft 52600 Front Runner Grill Guard. The best deal I found out there was through Autoplicity, and the only reason this one is the best is because they provide free shipping which saves you anywhere from $150 to $200. There is a fitment section at the bottom of the page. I have a 2017 and when I was checking out I noticed it said that the guard didn't fit my year van, but, if you look at the fitment section it says it does, so, I just went for it. Make sure this one fits the year of your van and if you feel you need to, their customer support is great. They have a live chat you can hash it out with if you have any questions. Here is the link: Autoplicity - Steelcraft 52600 Front Runner Guard
If for whatever reason they stop providing the free shipping, you can also order this item from amazon. Again make sure this one fits the year of your van: Amazon - Steelcraft 52600 Front Runner Guard
You Received Your Grill Guard! Now What?
Grab a friend and go to town! It always makes the job so much easier with an extra set of hands. Two people makes this job easy and three people just makes the job fun (as you can see in the video). This install can also be done solo. The only part that may be an issue with a one person install is pushing the bottom of the guard onto the bumper mounts. It can be done though.
Tools You'll Need:
Steelcraft 52600 front runner grill guard installation instructions (If you're into that kind of thing and you lose the ones the kit came with)
15mm wrench or socket
10mm wrench or socket
18mm wrench and socket
13mm wrench and socket
T30 torx driver
Note: I found this awesome kit on amazon and thought I'd share it with you. It's a really cool T-Handle driver set. I've used it on just about every project and upgrade I've done since having it. It's super handy. Hyper Tough 52 piece T handle driver set
Installation:
Note: These are the steps I took to installing the grill guard. I can't remember exactly what the instructions say but I remember the steps I took to getting this done. The first two steps are interchangeable. It's whatever your preference to getting the biggest pai in the ass out of the way is.
1. Bumper Brackets - Tools needed: 15mm socket or wrench
These were for me the biggest pain in the ass out of the whole install. You find these bolts under the front bumper on both sides of the Promaster. You are going to take out the bottom two bolts on each side. Then you are going to mount the brackets with the vertical part of the bracket closer to the engine using the existing mount bolts you took out. Note: see 2:57 in video for more details.
2. Upper Mounting Brackets - Tools needed: 10mm socket or wrench and T30 Torx driver
For this part you will take off your grill using the T30 Torx driver. There are six bolts (or four bolts and two lock bolt things). After you take out the bolts you can pop the grill right off. Then using a ratchet with a 10mm socket you are going to take the bolts out of the oil cooler and sandwich the upper brackets in using the existing bolts you took out. Then you will put the grill back on the same way you took it off, just in reverse. Note: see 5:15 in video for more details.
3. Mounting the grill guard - Tools needed 18mm socket and 18mm wrench
Ok, the best way to set this on and line up the bolt holes under the van is to rest the grill guard on the upper mounts and have someone hold the top steady while you slide the bottom in place. It may need a bit of finesse to get into place and you dont want the top of the grill guard coming down on you as you're banging away at it. Once in place get the bolts that comes in the kit and put them in the holes and crank away at them with the 18mm wrench and ratchet. Note: see 7:43 in video for more details.
4. Mounting the side wings - Tools needed 13mm wrench and socket
All this takes is holding the wing up. They will go with the contour of the front of the van. If you have the sides mixed up you will definitely know right away. Line up the holes insert the bolts and crank them down with the 13mm wrench and socket. Note: see 8:08 in video for more details.
CONGRATS!!!! You are done!
Optional Light Installation
I'll be honest this part of my guidance is going to be a little bit dicey. Only because the tools used to mount the lights is going to be different depending on which manufacturer of light you are getting. The wiring is going to be the only thing I can really give you some tips on since that is going to be the same all around.
Things you'll need:
Lights - I would shop around for the style and lumens you're looking for. Personally I like the look of the round lights. It gives it a dune buggy type of look. A lot of people gravitate towards the light bar. I think the square ones are pretty cool too. The ones in the link are really cool, but, shop around! Get the ones that fit you.
Electrical connectors & crimpers - These you can get at any auto parts store. They have a variety pack that work perfect. The link will at least give you an idea of what you're looking for if you don't want to wait for amazon. It's a really cool kit that comes with crimpers and heat shrink tubing. It's a bit over kill with the amount of pieces to it, but, if you run into more electrical work it'd be great to have.
Electrical Tape
Switch - This is all personal preference. I chose this one because I like blue light because I'm kind of a nerd. Again, you can get all types of switches at any auto supply store.
14 or 16 gauge Red & Black wire - I used a 14 gauge wire. It's a bit overkill for these, but, it's what I had laying around, so, I used it. Honestly you could run a 16 gauge, too. You can get this at any auto parts store.
Protecive tubing for Wires - This is used to wrap around the wires to protected them from abrasion or weathering. Plus it makes it nice and clean looking.
Installation:
1. Mount your lights
This is going to be the part that is dependent on the brand of lights you get, so, I wont get into too much detail. Just make sure you crank those things on.
2. Run the Lights into the Cab
I used butt connectors to connect both lights to the red and black wires. Then I ran the wires across the bumper using zip ties. Once I got to the drivers side bumper, I ran the wires up (securing them with zip ties along the way) and through a beautiful hole that goes through the firewall and into the cab. I also wrapped the wires in the protecting tubing.
3. Get Power to the Switch
This is the easiest way to get electricity from the starter battery to the lights. For this, first thing you need to do is disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. After you disconnect the negative terminal take a look at the positive terminal. There are a bunch of INF fuses hooked right onto the Positive terminal. Find one that is the lowest amp, then you can tap a line right from the battery by taking off the nut on the side of the fuse furthest from the battery. Use a run of the red wire with an eye connector on it and place it on the bolt you took the nut off of and place the nut back on. Run the red wire under the flooring to the switch. Where ever you are mounting the switch just make sure you are running the wire where it wont get accidentally yanked or anything. If you are using the suggested switch you will be connecting it with a female spade connector.
Connect the Power to the lights and Ground it out
This part you are going to connect the black wire to any good ground. There is a cool ground right under the fuse box I used. Then connect the red out to the lights to the other side of the switch using a female spade terminal and...
Viola! Flip that switch and enjoy the new lights.
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